Nella Larsen’s novel has a main concern of race during this time period, and we see the main characters go through a great change to conform to society’s standards. However, a huge part of the novel is how these women are changing themselves to get what they want from society. Though as the readers we see Clare as being in a more extreme situation, along with going through a more dramatic identity change; it can be argued that Irene is the one who is less in touch with her roots, and who is more obsessed with society’s standards for women. In Nella Larsen’s Passing, she uses the deep descriptions of clothing, mannerisms, and speech of the characters to show us how they are changing their identities; Along with how doing this affects them mentally.
Some of the most prominent descriptions we see throughout the novel is the constant describing of Clare and Irene’s clothing. Miriam Thaggart’s article explains why this is a big factor in their “passing.” “Irene’s and Clare’s performance of a certain type of femininity, with fashion as their costumes and middle-class etiquette as their stage directions, helps the women to accentuate the ambiguous visual demarcations of the African American, light-skinned body and enables then to pass as white more successfully” (Thaggert 511). With this point being made, Irene and Clare’s advantages are knowing what white and middle-class culture was like at the time. Capitalism was on the rise, so they could look in magazines in order to play the part well enough to “pass.” Larsen never outright states this in her novel, however it is left up to ambiguity like many other aspects of the novel. She tends to show it in little descriptions of Clare’s clothing and the way she carries herself. For example, in Irene’s first encounter with Clare she does not remember her until Clare outright introduces herself again. Irene’s initial observation is, “An attractive-looking woman, was Irene’s opinion, with those dark, almost black, eyes and that wide mouth like a scarlet flower against the ivory of her skin, nice clothes too, just right for the weather, thin and cool without being mussy, as summer things were so apt to be” (Larsen 9). In the very first encounter we see a description of clothing, that soon becomes the main focus of Irene’s attention. These ideas come from “the assumption of whiteness at the time. From Rottenberg’s point of view, this means, “Once there is an assumption of whiteness, pigmentation does not signify in the same way. Melanin, it seems, is not the manifest truth of race, although it has played a crucial part in the construction of racial thinking in the United States” (Rottenberg 495).
When talking about the identity of the characters, we must know that it is important that they are self-aware of their identity. It is deeply a part of who you are, however when we see Irene think about her identity, she fully forms to societies standards despite claiming to be closer to her race than Clare. Irene tries to push away the implications of her race and passes judgement to those who aren’t dressed in prestigious condition or put together as she sees fit. We see this in her thoughts about Gertrude when meeting Clare at her home, it is so clear that she thinks less of Gertrude because of how she is put together. Clare seems to be fully aware of where she came from and misses it. All the while, she seems to be almost making fun of the people who can’t quite make out who she is, enjoying her overall ambiguity.
We are exposed to Irene’s judgment strongly when she encounters Gertrude, her mood immediately changes when she is observing her. Irene’s inner monologue tells us, “For Gertrude too had married a white man, though it couldn’t be truthfully said that she was ‘passing’” (Larsen 24). It is not said at first why Gertrude cannot be “passing”, and Irene immediately takes on a condescending tone when thinking about her. We are given more information during Irene’s description of Gertrude, “There was left of her youthful prettiness, which had been so admired in their high-school days, no trace. She had grown broad, fat almost, and through there were no lines on her large white face, it’s very smoothness was somehow prematurely aging…” (Larsen 25). Irene goes on like this for a bit, but it brings the question as to why she thinks Gertrude couldn’t pass. Irene says that she has a “large white face” and makes no further mention of her skin color when describing her. What I see here is Irene further accepting the ideologies that society had about race at the time. She believes that Gertrude will not pass because she doesn’t look put together, because she has gained weight, and maybe a bit of jealousy. Irene makes it a point that Gertrude had married a white man, I see this as coming from a bit of regret. The large part of Irene’s interaction with this character shows her prejudice that she has gained, even against her own race.
Although the readers are hinted at the ideology in the first encounter with Clare, that was of admiration. Flipping the script, in a sense, exposes Irene to the reader. Rottenberg describes the ideology of the time as, “Physical features, namely skin color, are linked to attributes of intellect and behavior, establishing a hierarchy of quality between white and black. The concept if race, like gender, does not denote a natural phenomenon, but rather ‘groups together attributes which do not have a necessary relationship to one another in order to enable one to make use of this fictitious unity as casual principle, an omnipresent meaning’” (Rottenberg 492-493). This puts into perspective the ideology Irene has forced upon her, and that she has eventually accepted. Furthermore, the readers are told that Irene has more of a tie to her race, however it can be seen through these assumptions she does not. It is truly revealed in this moment Rottenberg describes, “Although these descriptions can be read as having a positive valence, Irene’s relationship to her identification with blackness is revealed when she suspects that her husband is having an affair with Clare. She describes herself as caught between two allegiances-herself and her race. ‘Race! The thing that bound and suffocated her… the burden of race’ (255, my emphasis). Race identification is ultimately described as something imposed” (Rottenberg 499).
This is also where we start to differentiate Clare and Irene from one another. We see Clare show only kindness to Gertrude, treating her just as she treats Irene despite her appearance. What can be concluded from this, is that Clare has been affected by prejudice and stereotypes; but is playing the system instead of accepting it. Throughout the novel we see Clare trying to get back to her previous identity, the race is initially identified with. This is so damaging to Clare because she knows that none of these things are true, she identifies with these people still, despite pushing them away for her own gain. For example, in the article White Negroes we see a perspective of a real person, who decided to expose their identity despite losing their job. “She said she that a terrible mistake had been made as I had been mistaken for Spanish. You can see that the disadvantage of my acknowledging my race is only too obvious. However, on the other hand, I could never have been happy there had I been forced into deception” (Ellsworth 109).
Clare seems to have made this discovery too late, being too focused on what she would gain and not the damage it would do. Clare is fighting the fact that she gave up her identity for money, despite sharing a lot of the values and identifying with it. Clare is forced to make herself an object almost, every moment of her life is dedicated to deception. We can really see how almost, doll-like, she is in this description of her from Irene, “Clare, exquisite, golden, fragrant, flaunting, in a stately gown of shining black taffeta, whose long, full skirt lay in graceful folds about ger slim golden feet; her glistening hair drawn smoothly back into a small twist at the nape of her neck; her eyes sparkling like dark jewels” (Larsen 53). Clare is not life-like in this description; she is almost unrealistically put together. This is another time where Larsen conveys the idealism that Irene has and the extreme deception of Clare only through clothing.
Seeing these opposite ideals is where the psychological effects come in to each character, though in a different way. In Jennifer Brody’s article, we see her explain the differences between the two character’s ideologies, stating “Who builds barriers between herself and her racial heritage? Who is it who describes herself as being in a perpetual state of alarm, always in danger? Certainly not Clare Kendry…” (Brody 396). Irene having this kind of ideology makes her character paranoid at all times, in the beginning panicking when Clare was staring at her, along with at the end when she is convinced that Clare would be caught. We see her paranoia and up-tightness bleed into other stages of life. Since it is left ambiguous, we don’t know for sure if her husband and Clare are cheating, however she states it to herself as fact.
When looking at Clare’s character, she is almost too carefree about the situation at hand. Her life is now built around, and depends on, her passing we see this at the end when she no longer is passing, she dies. Though anything can be said about how she fell out the window, she died the moment she was discovered. She has made her life depend on this “passing” yet never took it too seriously, almost laughing at those around her. However, they both psychologically suffer one missing their community, and forcing themselves into deception, while the other is constantly paranoid and pushing it away. When looking at Cheryl Wall’s article, she claims this outcome is enviable, “As they navigate between racial and cultural priorities, Larsen’s protagonists attempt to fashion a sense of self free of both suffocating restrictions of ladyhood and fantasies of the exotic female other. They fail. The tragedy for these mulattoes is the impossibility of self-definition. Larsen’s protagonists assume false identities that ensure social survival but result in psychological suicide” (Wall 357).
Through these different transformations and ideologies at the time, Irene and Clare have different reactions. Though both have the same intention of manipulating the extreme racial stereotypes at the time to their favor, they start to let go of that part of themselves. Clare puts herself in grave danger but doesn’t seem to be aware of it, constantly going to these parties or Irene’s house. She desperately tries to get back what she left behind in order to experience her community again. The problem is, while leaving it for societal advantage and money, she can never return. She built her life around it; every waking moment is dedicated to deception. We see the most of Clare’s longing in the line, “I’d do what I want to do more than anything else right now. I’d come up here to live. Harlem, I mean. Then I’d be able to do as I please, when I please” (Larsen 75). Her character turns into an idea itself, she is doll-like, and embodies everything a society thinks a woman should be. Larsen conveys this perfectly through her descriptions of clothing and Clare’s mannerisms.
While Irene fears being caught so much that she can barely sit in a café without being in extreme fear. She holds onto and accepts society’s standards at the time, and judges those who do not old onto it. Her unreliable narrations try to deceive the reader into thinking that she is more connected with her race than Clare, but that is not the case. Whether she knows it or not, Irene has accepted and believes these stereotypes, as we see through her judgement of Gertrude’s character. Both of the situations make it impossible for these women to be comfortable in, or even have a solid identity. The clothing and the mannerisms are a huge part of being able to pass, they are also a huge part of a person’s identity. However, these descriptions lead us to conclusions about their deceptions, about their opinions, and about their conflict. Larsen uses these clothes as clues to the ambiguity she has left in the novel, and it is up to the reader to come up with their own conclusion about it. Imagine having to be aware of every fashion choice you make or every gesture. These women are putting themselves through great stress and torture just for these societal advantages. This is where they start to lose their identity to take on a new one. Which brings us to the final question, is that worth it?
Works Cited
Brody, Jennifer Devere. “Clare Kendry’s ‘True’ Colors: Race and Class Conflict In Nella Larsen’s Passing.” Passing. 1929, by Nella Larsen; edited by Carla Kaplan, Norton, 2007, pp. 393-408. Norton Critical Edition.
Ellsworth, Juanita. “White Negros.” Passing. 1929, by Nella Larsen; edited by Carla Kaplan,
Norton, 2007, pp 109-111. Norton Critical Edition.
Larsen, Nella. Passing. 1929. Ed. Carla Kaplan. New York: Norton, 2007. Print. Norton Critical Edition.
Rottenberg, Catherine. “Passing: Race, Identification, and Desire.” Passing. 1929, by Nella Larsen; edited by Carla Kaplan, Norton, 2007, pp 489-507. Norton Critical Edition.
Thaggert, Miriam. “Racial Etiquette: Nella Larsen’s Passing and The Rhinelander Case.” Passing. 1929, by Nella Larsen; edited by Carla Kaplan, Norton, 2007, pp 507-530. Norton Critical Edition.
Wall, Cheryl A. “Passing for What? Aspects of Identity in Nella Larsen’s Novels.” Passing.
1929, by Nella Larsen; edited by Carla Kaplan, Norton, 2007, pp 356-362. Norton Critical
Edition.